The Louis Lake Loop Road near Lander takes travelers to some of Wyomingâs most beautiful places â but at a price.
Thatâs because much of it is also a kidney-rattling washboard with whiplash-inducing potholes.
Given the roadâs awful condition, it takes about two hours to travel roughly 25 miles that the Louis Lake Loop Road covers.
It starts with a climb up a magnificent set of switchbacks just a few miles past Sinks Canyon State Park south of Lander. It comes out at Wyoming Highway 28 on South Pass.
The switchback section is paved. However, itâs narrow, and in many places there arenât any guardrails. Not recommended for those who are prone to vertigo.
After things flatten out just past the turnoff to Warthen Reservoir, the pavement ends. There, it officially becomes Forest Road 300 through the Shoshone National Forest.
And thatâs where the real fun begins.
The going is rough enough to make it difficult to keep a full-sized pickup from bouncing and skipping right off the road.
Some courageous souls traverse the road in sedans or pull gigantic campers along it to access numerous prime camping spots all along the route.
Designed For Model Ts
Part of the reason the road is so rough is because it wasnât designed to handle the sheer number of large vehicles that run along it today, retired forester Karl Brauneis of Lander told Cowboy State Daily.
The road was built mostly in the 1930s along what had been a horse-drawn wagon route.
âIt was designed to handle Model Ts going 15 mph,â Brauneis said.
During his career with the U.S. Forest Service, Brauneis helped oversee maintenance of Louis Lake Loop Road.
As bad as it is now, he said that at one time it was even worse, with bridges along the route on the verge of collapsing.
Even so, Louis Lake Loop Road canât take much more of a pounding without its current annoyances becoming serious problems, Brauneis said.
âThat road is so far gone it will close itself,â he said.
Not Driving It Anymore
Micheal Wilmer moved to Lander a few years ago and loves the scenery and stops along the Louis Lake Loop Road.
He said the road âis not too bad at the beginning, but it keeps getting worse and worse. If you go around a curve at more than 10 mph and thereâs washboard, the vehicle starts slipping like itâs on ice.â
His last drive along the road earlier this summer was such a white-knuckle ride, Wilmer decided he wonât drive it again until some maintenance is done.
Word is that the regional U.S. Forest Service office doesnât have the budget to do much with Louis Lake Loop Road for the time being, he said.
âItâs not a secret that thereâs no budget (for road repairs),â Wilmer said. âTo me, itâs sad that government employees donât seem to have any flexibility in what they do.â
Messages left for the Forest Service regarding the road werenât returned.
âAn Indictment Against Centralizationâ
Brauneis said itâs a common perception that a lack of maintenance on Louis Lake Loop Road is because of cuts to the federal budget by the administration of President Donald Trump.
He doesnât think thatâs accurate, because Forest Service road maintenance problems go back to well before the Trump administration, he said.
Rather, he thinks itâs a matter of how the Forest Service road engineering budget is divided up.
In his experience, larger central Forest Service offices get most of the money, while satellite offices like that in Lander get leftovers, he said.
âAll that stuff, to me, is not the fault of the Trump administration,â he said. âItâs the fault of such a massive, centralized bureaucracy. Itâs an indictment against centralization.â
As long as Louis Lake Loop Road doesnât fall apart so badly that it must be closed, it will continue to see more use, Brauneis said. Not only from locals who know and love the route, but from increasing numbers of visitors.
âUtah is maxing out with people,â he said. âAnd now were seeing more visitors from Utah coming here for the outdoors.âÂ
Mark Heinz can be reached at mark@cowboystatedaily.com.